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Catch Can Installation
Instructions
(Click on
any picture for larger view)
1.
Remove the 4 #27 torx
screws that hold the
outer air box cover or
"tank" on. Don’t lose
the plastic washers.
2.
Pull the gas tank vent
hose off of the inner
air box cover. No need
to disconnect it.
3.
On the XB12s disconnect
the electrical plug on
the servo motor and the
cable too.
4.
Remove the inner air box
cover by pressing down
on it and sequentially
snapping open the
retaining tabs.
5.
Remove the air filter.
6.
Remove the 4 #27 torx
screws that hold down
the lower air box cover.
7.
Lift up the back of the
lower cover part way and
unplug the temperature
sensor.
8.
Push / pull the two PCV
hoses out of the bottom
of the cover.
9.
Work the cover off of
the rubber velocity
stack and remove it from
the bike.
10. Clip the wire ties
on the two PCV hoses and
remove them. Save the
hoses in case you want
to go back to the stock
set up someday.
11. Install the
enclosed black plastic
plugs from the bottom
side (see photos).
UNDER NO
CIRCUMSTANCES are you to
install these plugs from
the top side as they
could be ingested by the
engine. Press
the plugs into place
using the back of a
screwdriver to seat
them. Be careful not to
break the temperature
sensor. Turn the cover
over and pry one pin out
on each side of the plug
to make sure it won’t
drop out. You may want
to apply some RTV around
the outside edge of the
plug after it’s
installed for a perfect
seal (see photo).
12. Connect the short
supplied PCV hose to the
front PCV valve and
connect the long
supplied PCV hose to the
rear PCV valve. Use the
supplied wire ties at
these connections like
stock. Attach the two
hoses to the "T" fitting
(see photos).
13. Now you have to
decide where you want to
mount the sintered metal
breather. I screwed mine
right into the back of
the catch can using the
nipple and elbow. Some
folks like to run a hose
back up to the top of
the engine and put the
breather up there, and
some prefer to run the
hose along the side of
the engine and let it
terminate behind the
foot peg (see photos).
You can also terminate
it under the chin
fairing.
There
is enough hose to put it
where you want.
This will weep a small
amount of oil
eventually.
14. If you are directly
mounting the sintered
metal vent to the catch
can, screw it in now
(see photo). If you are
remotely mounting the
vent, screw the 45
degree barbed hose
fitting into the back of
the catch can (see
photo) and then screw
the vent into the end of
ãW ãWãV RˆãW@ãW@@ãW fitting so you can press
vent with fitting into
the end of the vent
hose.
15. Remove the two ¼ -20
oil cooler hex head cap
screws and take the
washers off. Use the
supplied longer
stainless screws and the
stock washers to mount
the catch can (see
photos).
16. Push the 16” long
black hose down through
the frame and press it
onto the top catch can
barbed fitting
(see photos).
17. If you are mounting
the sintered metal vent
plug remotely using the
hose, route it into
place now.
18. Reassembly: Press
the lower air box cover
over the rubber stack
top & connect the
temperature sensor plug.
19. Now you have to work
the rubber velocity
stack sealing ring back
into the lower air box
cover. It’s a bit of a
pain in the ass, but
take your time. I used a
small allen key to work
the last bit of the
gasket into place.
20. Put the four screws
back in to hold the
lower air box cover
down.
21. Reinstall the air
filter & inner air box
cover.
22. Plug the servo motor
plug back in (XB12s
only) and route the
cable and gas vent hose
where they were before.
23. Put the "tank" back
on and you are done.
Crack open the petcock on
the catch can at least every
gas fill up. You will be
shocked at how much oily
water comes out. All that
crap used to go into your
engine. Be sure to dispose
of the liquid in an
environmentally proper and
friendly way.
The Drummer Team
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